The Abacos (Finally!!)

We finally found a weather window (of sorts) and left Spanish Wells Thursday morning. We could hear on the radio that 10-15 other boats (all sail) were also departing from the west end of Eleuthera. The pilot (A1 Broadshad) we had hired showed up thirty minutes late and we (Compass Rose & La Garza Verde) were about to leave without him. [Footnote: met his niece who is a waitress at the local restaurant; she revealed his real name- Hextant Pinder]. He finally led us out through the reefs at Ridley Point and we entered the ocean northbound. The photo of La Garza Verde’s chart plotter clearly shows the reefs. We felt much more comfortable with A1 leading us through. The winds were still SE at around 20 kts with seas in the 5-6 ft range off our starboard beam to slightly aft of the beam. While this was much better than the northerly conditions of the past week, it still made for a rock and roll ride. We put up our steadying sail but not sure if is helped much. As you can see from the photo of the saloon, things tended to slide around even though they we bungied. After seven hours of open waters, we finally reached the cut through Little Harbour and entered a much smoother Sea of Abaco. We went from rolling seas and 15,000 ft of water to smooth, crystal clear water only eight feet deep. What a welcome relief it was to once again be in these conditions. Another two hours up the Sea of Abaco and we arrived at Abaco Resort and Boat Harbour. We pulled into slip #713 and we had arrived! Since leaving Marathon on February 21st, we have now covered exactly 500 nm. Since leaving Annapolis last October, we have now covered 1,901 nm.

Photo: Entering Boat Harbour Marina in Marsh Harbour

Spanish Wells (Day 7)

Photo: Now wer're reduced to taking pictures of rocks!!


While in Spanish Wells we met Bob and Jane aboard “Sweet Luxury”, a Cabo Rico sailboat. They are best friends with John’s cousin Jenny in Conn. Small world... Then “Cygnus” pulled into the marina. This is a Catalina 47 and they had been out on a mooring ball for the past 10 days waiting to cross to the Abacos. They are from Annapolis (Steve & Mary Jane Floyd) and are best friends with Joe Rocchio who was two slips from us at Bert Jabin’s Marina in Annapolis. They both have Catalina 47’s. This is getting freaky! There are at least 25 boats in Spanish Wells waiting to cross to the Abacos. When we are all ‘set free’, it will be like the Beltway!

Wellllllll, Tuesday morning and still the winds/seas are wrong for crossing. There was a lot of chatter this morning on the radio about weather and the general consensus (and that of our professional pilot) was to wait another day. Never did we think we would be here for a full week.

Eleuthera

Arrived at Spanish Wells, Eleuthera on Wednesday and tied up at Spanish Wells Yacht Haven. Spanish Wells is a charming town (village) whose main economy is lobstering. The boats go to the ends of the Bahamas to catch lobster.
Photo: Entering Spanish Wells harbour















Photo: Spanish Wells "All Age School"

Photo: Pam riding through Spanish Wells

We met Jim and Dudley Grove on their 1962 Hatteras ("Fanfare") which they have owned for the past 45 years (it was his parent’s boat first). He has been coming to Eleuthera since he was 8 years old and was a wealth of information. On Friday they departed to go over to Harbour Island, about an hours sail. To get there, you have to cross “The Devil’s Backbone”, a snaking route through coral reefs and shifting sands. The services of a professional pilot are strongly recommended.

“La Garza Verde” (The Green Heron) arrived on Friday. We had met John & Susan Hauge down at Exuma Park. We had some drinks and food on their boat and seemed like we had been friends forever.
Photo: Rainbow in Spanish Wells

On Saturday, the four of us decided to take the ‘fast’ ferry (The Bo Hengy) over to Harbour Island. This is a 120 foot catamaran that blows through the Devils’ Backbone at 25 kts. Even at that speed, it was a rockin and rollin trip. At times we were 50’ off the beach and at other times 50 ft from exposed coral reefs. Harbour Island is the new “hot” real estate area of the Bahamas. Waterfront houses routinely go for $3-4 million. The main mode of transportation there is golf carts and they are everywhere. No seatbelts or helmets…. Quite a sight!

Photo: The "Bo Hengy" fast ferry.

Everything closes in Spanish Wells on Sunday. We rode our bikes around and, not only is everything shut down, but there is no one on the streets. Not sure where they all go but is was like a ghost town.

Photo: Fantasy Corner in Harbour Island

We hired a professional pilot to guide us through the reef and get us on our way to the Abacos Monday morning. Alas, it was not to be! He arrived a 7:30am and said, ‘if it was his boat, he would not go’. Good enough for me! Maybe Tuesday…at least the stores are open today and we can check email at “Computer Concepts”.

A 47 Catalina sailboat pulled in this morning. Steve and Mary Jane Floyd from Annapolis have been out on the mooring balls for two weeks waiting to go to the Abacos. Yikes!! He says Tuesday looks promising.

We need to take the boat out today to empty the holding tank. There are no pump out stations in the Bahamas. All the ‘flushing’ of the tides seems to keep the water clear. But, we just don’t feel good about dumping it right in the marina.

The Exumas

Photo: Compass Rose off Warderick Wells, Exumas
Photo: Skeleton of a whale at Warderick Wells

We left Nassau after two days decided to continue with Mike & Casey down to the Exumas. After a two day cruise, we tied up to a mooring ball at the Exumas Land & Sea Park in Warderick Wells. The water here looks as clear as gin!

Photo: Boats anchored at Warderick Wells, Exumas

We dinghied in to check in at the Ranger station. Coming ashore we saw the remains (bones) of a mammoth whale. Phil Chapman (“Resolute”) stopped by in his dingy this afternoon. He is anchored at the Hog Cay mooring field. Got a call on the radio from Ted & Pat (“Seclusion”) down in Staniel Cay. Looks like we will miss them as they are headed south. At 5:30p there was the weekly Happy Hour (BYO) on the beach complete with bonfire. There were about 30 other cruisers there. We stayed about and hour then headed back to ”Tranquility Base” for dinner. To top it off , there was a lunar eclipse of the full moon!

Photo: John & Pam, Casey & Mike at Exumas Land & Sea Park

The Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park, the first land and sea park in the world, covers 176 square miles (22 by 4 miles). It is a no-take zone by both land and sea-nothing living or dead, can be removed from the park. Warderick Wells in the headquarters for the park.

Sunday finds us still at the anchorage. Took the dingy in to the beach with Mike and Casey and hiked to the top of ‘Boo Boo Hill’. Did a little snorkeling and basically just acted like a slug.

The two fronts are still meandering south and no one knows when or if they will effect our weather. Best guess in 15-20 kts NW late Sunday and into Monday. This will determine when we start heading back north to the Abacos.

In The Bahamas

Compass Rose departed Miami at 7am and headed east towards the Bahamas. We were accompanied by Mike & Casey Ruhr aboard their Krogen 48 Tranquility Base. Although the forecast from NOAA was for 2-4 foot seas in the a.m. and 1-2 in the p.m, it turned out to be more like 3-4 all day. The wind and waves were on our starboard beam which contributed to a rock and roll crossing.

But, at 2:30 in the afternoon we sighted Cat Cay (land ho!) and winded our way through Gun Cay Cut. The water went from 2,800 ft to 12 ft in a matter of minutes. The water becam flat and verrrrry clear once we were on the Bahama Banks. We continued on for another 20 miles and anchored out on the Banks litterally in the middle of nowhere. Very dark and spooky.

Photo: Our travelling companion Tranquility Base.

After a somewhat rolly night on the Banks, we pulled up the anchor at 7am and continued east towards Chub Cay. Sighting land once again, we entered the Chub Cay Marina. This marina is in the process of being completly rebuilt. Floating docks can accomodate boats up to 150' and they are building single family houses everywhere. Apparently, there is great fishing here (the water drops off to 2500' just off here). Very nice place but at $3.85/ft (incl elect) it's a bit pricey.

Photo: The new 'clubhouse' at Chub Cay

Miami, FL

We received an email from Mike and Casey Ruhr (Tranquility Base) that they were in Miami and planning on crossing to the Bahamas on Monday. We agreed to meet them up there and get together.

Compass Rose departed Boca Chita Saturday morning for the 2 1/2 hr trip up to Miami. Saturday on Biscayne Bay is akin to the DC Beltway! A lot of fast boats going in multiple directions with little coordination. Photo: anchored in Sunset Lake.

We found Mike and Casey in a delightful anchorage hidden among the multi-million dollar houses between gated communities on the islands just off South Beach. We are the only two boats here.

Photo: Cruise ships parallel parked in Miami.

Photo: Heritage of Miami on Biscayne Bay

Boca Chita Key

We decided to stay in Boca Chita for another day. By noon Friday every dock space was taken and boats began rafting up. The "Shake a Leg" foundation was having an outing on Boca Chita and arrived with about fifty people and a dozen sailboats. The foundation provides opportunities for handicapped people to sail and they were joined by Univ of Miami students in the Physical Therapist curriculum. They erected a small tent city with tons of food and beer. Their partying went on well past 1am. Photo: Boats starting to pack in.

Photo: Coast Guard checking out the situation.

Phone: Another sunset over Biscayne Bay.

Bahamas Crossing...Not So Fast!

Well, the winds shifted to the NNW Wednesday night...John got up at 2:45am Wed to check on the weather and went back to bed!

For the unitiated, the north running Gulf Stream does not like winds from the north. It has been compared to rubbing a cat's fur from the tail forward; the waves really stand up on end.

Wo we departed Rodriquez Key and had a delightful cruise up the coast and cut through Angelfish Creek into Biscayne Bay. We are now in Boca Chita State Park, a place we stopped at and loved back in November. Looks like the next crossing 'window' will be Monday. We'll make our way north to West Palm and see what happens.

Photo: Boca Chita lighthouse at sunset.

Onward To The Bahamas!!

We plan on departing Marathon on Wednesday and pre-position near Rodriquez Key (Key Largo) for the crossing to the Bahamas. The weather forecast calls for SSE winds at 5-10 kts. A front is expected to come through Wednesday night with winds switching to the NW. Hope the Gulf Stream doesn't react too quickly to the wind switch.

Bob & Gail's Excellent Visit

Bob and Gail Higginbotham left frigid Annapolis to spend a week in the Keys. The weather cooperated here and the seas were perfect for snorkling on the reef.

Photo: Bike riding on the Seven Mile Bridge.










Photo: Aboard Compass Rose at Sombrero Reef.





















Photo: View of the reef from the boat. Water is 20' deep.















Photo: Pam & Gail enjoying the sun and water.

Installing Sampson Posts

Sometimes there is just not enough places to tie off lines from dock, mooriong balls or other boats. So, we decided to install two Sampson Posts on the foredeck of Compass Rose. It is a pretty scary proposition drilling holes through the deck.



Photo: Holes drill in deck to stbd post.

Photo: Layers drilled out. The total thickness is 3".








Photo: Smaller holes drilled through epoxy.
Photo: Holes filled with epoxy.

Photo: Sealant applied to deck.

Photo: Dock line tied around post.

Photo: Sampson Post installed

Key West, FL

Ten "Krogenites" journeyed to Key West to meet up with Kay and Mike Jones (Lowe Key). Kay had scheduled a day of events not normally seen by the tourists.

Photo: The 'Krogen Gang' in Key West.
Photo: Playing Bocce BallPhotos: Some of the sculpturesPam in front of a very large "tree".

Marathon, FL 2007

Scenes from Marathon, FL

















The "Krogen Gang" at the weekly Thursday breakfast at the 7 Mile Grill.



Photo: Sunset from the back of Compass Rose.


Photo: Compass Rose with the 'steadying sail' up. Took the boat out in the ocean but could not really tell if the sail help in slowing down the roll.

Christmas 2006 Letter

Merry Christmas To You All From Pam and John



We hope that your Holiday Season is filled with good health and happiness.

This year we celebrated another milestone. Pam turned sixty on September 19th! Cameron’s birthday is the day before so Pam shared her birthday celebration with her four year old granddaughter. Pam is still doing some contractual work for the Association.
It is amazing how much you can accomplish while at sea. Cell phones and the Internet are wonderful.

We have now been living aboard Compass Rose for 18 months. We spent this past summer in Annapolis as this allowed us to spend some time with the kids and grandchildren and cruise on Chesapeake Bay. In the second week of October we started our second cruise south and traveled the Atlantic Intercoastal Waterway for two months. We are now in Marathon in the Florida Keys until the middle of February when we plan to cross over to the Bahamas. The “plan” is to spend two months there and then be back in the Chesapeake by mid May.

Carson with his Lacrosse gear

Kim and Mike are as busy as ever with Carson (who will be seven in February) and Cameron. Carson is in the first grade and loves sports, especially Lacrosse and has earned many belts in karate. We had a real scare this past summer when he was hospitalized with bacterial pneumonia. He was in D.C. Children’s Hospital for 10 days. He is back to his old self again. Amazing how they bounce back.



John & Cameron

Our “Little Princess” Cameron is attending pre-school three days a week and keeps everyone on their toes. She is quite the little talker. She had her adenoids removed in December. She came out of the operation talking up a storm. What a trooper she was.

Kim and Mike have their hands full but they are great parents. Kim spends what spare time she has on the tennis court and Mike can be found on the golf course


Kim & Mike





Travis just completed his fifth year on the faculty at the Haverford School as Asst. Dean, Math Teacher and Lacrosse Coach. He was chosen the Teacher of the Year this past November. It is nice to see all his hard work recognized. He is very much at home in Philadelphia.

This Christmas will be a special time to celebrate our family’s gift of each other and the joy of being together. The whole family will all be together at Kim and Mike’s house again this year.

Hope all is well with you and your families. We wish you and yours a very Happy New Year. We pray for the many military families who are separated this holiday season and may we have peace on earth soon .

John & Pam

Compass Rose

3 Church Circle
PMB 146
Annapolis, MD 21401

John Cell (410) 913-9277
Pam Cell (410) 353-2912

Email: johnloving@yahoo.com
Email: pamcompassrose@yahoo.com

Marathon My Marathon

We made the 35 mi trip from Islamorada to Marathon taking the Florida Bay route rather than the Hawk Channel route in the Atlantic. The winds were 15-20 kts from the east which would have made for a very uncomfortable trip 'outside'. The Keys island chain provided a great wind barrier for the Bay route.

We hit the Seven Mile Bridge channel right at slack current (as planned) to minimize the current/opposing wind waves. It was a smooth ride through the bridge but as soon as we were on the Atlantic side the wind driven waves hit us smack in the face. Instead of turning directly towards Marathon, we had to continue east for 2 mi in order to 'tack' back and keep the 4-5 ft waves off our beam.

But we finally got to Marathon and tied up at the Cay Clubs at Marathon (new fancy name for the Marathon Marina) at 3:45pm. We are three slips down from the one we had last year; this gives us an even better view of the ocean to the west (yes, the ocean is southwest of us!). The sun sets directly off our stern.

Photo: Pam enjoying the view from the back of our boat.